Travel in India: when to go, places and advice

An entire subcontinent: the white marble of the Taj Mahal, the ochre forts of Rajasthan, the ghats of Varanasi where the sacred pyres burn, the peaceful backwaters of Kerala and the Himalaya to the north. India is not visited, it is lived: it jostles, dazzles and holds on. Mythical trains, endless regional cuisines, permanent festivals, it rewards curious travellers who agree to let go of the schedule and of silence.

Capital: New Delhi
Currency: Indian rupee (₹)
Language: Hindi and English
Direct flight: ≈ 8 hr 30 from Paris
Time difference: +4 hr 30 in winter, +3 hr 30 in summer

Itineraries

Our trip ideas in India

The itineraries in India are in the works: the day-by-day programme, named hotels, tickets to book flagged in advance. Leave your address to be notified when they come out.

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The right season

When to go in India?

From October to March, northern India lives its best season: dry skies, 25 °C in Rajasthan, golden light. April-May bring crushing heat (45 °C on the plains), then the monsoon sweeps the country from June to September, making travel unpredictable but greening the whole South. Kerala and the coasts are also savoured in winter; the Himalaya keeps itself for summer.

January : Ideal
February : Ideal
March : Pleasant
April : In-between
May : Avoid
June : Avoid
July : Avoid
August : Avoid
September : In-between
October : Ideal
November : Ideal
December : Ideal

Ideal
Pleasant
In-between
Avoid

Quick guide

Understanding India

Getting around

The train is the quintessential Indian experience: book on IRCTC or via 12Go, in 2A or 3A class to sleep. In town, Uber and Ola spare you the rickshaw negotiations, which remain unavoidable on short hops.

Money

The rupee (₹). Withdraw cash in the cities, the countryside runs on cash, and keep small notes for temples, rickshaws and chai. UPI payment dominates, but remains hard for foreigners to access.

Language

22 official languages, Hindi in the north, but English is spoken everywhere the traveller goes: hotels, stations, restaurants. A "namaste" with joined hands opens every smile.

Useful apps

Uber or Ola for the city, IRCTC or ixigo for the trains, Zomato to find where the locals eat, and Google Maps, which works remarkably well.

Accommodation

From havelis converted into characterful hotels in Rajasthan to the houseboats of Kerala, via family guesthouses. The value is excellent, book early from November to February.

Etiquette

Take your shoes off in temples and homes, eat and give with the right hand, and ask before photographing people. Covered shoulders and knees are required in sacred places.

The iconic places

Taj Mahal

Agra

The white marble mausoleum raised by Shah Jahan for Mumtaz. At sunrise, as the marble blushes, the crowds have not yet arrived.

Ghats of Varanasi

Varanasi

The most sacred city of Hinduism, where pilgrims and pyres share the steps of the Ganges. The dawn boat ride is unforgettable.

Hawa Mahal

Jaipur

The palace of the winds and its 953 pink sandstone windows, from which the ladies of the court watched the street unseen.

Golden Temple

Amritsar

The holiest shrine of the Sikhs, set on its pool of lustral water. The community kitchen serves 100,000 free meals a day.

Kerala backwaters

Alleppey

900 km of canals between coconut palms and rice paddies, cruised on a traditional houseboat. Tropical India in slow motion.

Mehrangarh Fort

Jodhpur

A colossal citadel raised 120 m above the blue city. Its ramparts offer the finest panorama in Rajasthan.

Tap a dot, or browse the list below the map.

Taj Mahal : The marble mausoleum of Agra
Red Fort : The Mughal citadel of Delhi
Hawa Mahal : The palace of the winds, Jaipur
Amber Fort : The mirrored fort-palace, Jaipur
Mehrangarh : The fortress of Jodhpur, the blue city
Udaipur City Palace : The palace on Lake Pichola
Golden Temple : The Sikh shrine of Amritsar
Ghats of Varanasi : The sacred steps of the Ganges
Hampi : The ruins of the Vijayanagara empire
Gateway of India : The colonial arch of Mumbai
Alleppey backwaters : The Kerala canals by houseboat
Old Goa : Portuguese churches and beaches