Day 3
Shinjuku, from the imperial garden to the lanes
Morning
Shinjuku Gyoen
Fifty-eight hectares (143 acres) in the middle of the city, the former grounds of a lord that became an imperial botanical garden in 1906 and then a public park in 1949. Three gardens in one: a Japanese landscape garden with ponds and bridges, a formal French one, an English one with an immense lawn. A tropical glasshouse and a Taiwanese-style pavilion of 1928. A thousand cherry trees of sixty-five varieties spread the blossom over more than a month.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
The Tokyo city hall, two hundred and forty-three meters (797 ft), designed by Kenzō Tange in 1991 with the silhouette of a gothic cathedral in checkerboard. Its two observatories on the 45th floor, at 202 meters, are entirely free: it is the best freely accessible view in the city, with Fuji to the south-west in clear weather.
Afternoon
Kabukichō and Hanazono-jinja
The district takes its name from a kabuki theater that was never built: the post-war project was abandoned, the name stayed. It is today the densest nightlife district in Japan. In the middle of it, Hanazono-jinja, a vermilion shrine older than the founding of Edo, protects the businesses of the district; its Sunday flea market and its November festival are well known.
Isetan and Kinokuniya
The Isetan department store, founded in 1886, has the highest turnover of any department store in Japan; its food basement is a show in itself. The main Kinokuniya bookstore, a little further on, devotes a whole floor to books in foreign languages.
Evening
Omoide Yokochō
About sixty counters of four or five seats in two lanes a meter and a half wide, under the railway, inherited from the black market of 1946. You eat chicken skewers and grilled offal there in the smoke, elbow to elbow. Its post-war nickname was less poetic; the lane of memories came later.