Day 72
Asakusa and the Skytree
Morning
Kaminarimon and Nakamise
The thunder gate, guarded by the gods of wind and lightning, and its paper lantern four metres tall and seven hundred kilos, renewed every ten years. Behind it, the Nakamise lines up craft and cake shops over two hundred and fifty metres: it is one of the oldest shopping streets in Japan, born in the 18th century of the right granted to local residents to sell in exchange for sweeping the alleys.
Sensō-ji and Asakusa-jinja
The oldest temple in Tokyo, founded in 645 after two fisherman brothers pulled a statuette of Kannon up in their nets. Destroyed in 1945, rebuilt identically in concrete by public subscription. The neighbouring shinto shrine, Asakusa-jinja, honours those two fishermen and the notable who believed them; built in 1649, it survived the bombing and is therefore the genuinely old building on the site.
Booking · Tokyo tourist office: www.gotokyo.org/en/spot/15/index.html (new tab)
Afternoon
Tokyo Skytree
Six hundred and thirty-four metres, completed in 2012: the tallest tower in the world and the second tallest structure of any kind. Its height reads mu-sa-shi in Japanese, the old name of the province of Tokyo. Its central concrete column, decoupled from the outer structure, follows the earthquake-proof principle of five-storey pagodas.
Booking · Tower, official website: www.tokyo-skytree.jp/ (new tab)
Solamachi and Sumida Aquarium
At the foot of the tower, three hundred shops and restaurants on seven levels. The aquarium, on the 5th and 6th floors, is built around a large open pool of penguins and seals watched from two levels, and a collection of Japanese bred goldfish.
Evening
Tembō Galleria
Beyond the first observatory at 350 metres, a spiral glass ramp climbs to 450 metres, the highest public viewpoint in Japan. Go at nightfall: the city lights up during the climb. A time-stamped ticket is advised.
Good to know
Skytree: the ticket is time-stamped and access to the Tembō Galleria, the level at 450 metres, is charged on top of the first observatory. The sunset slots go first. In overcast weather the visit loses all its point: check the forecast in the morning and postpone if necessary.