The Transylvania of castles and Saxon citadels, the painted monasteries of Bucovina, the Transfăgărășan road snaking at 2,000 m and the Danube delta, the largest wetland in Europe: Romania has remained one of the continent's best-kept secrets. You pass horse-drawn carts and brown bears, sleep in fortified villages, and the Dracula myth hovers over landscapes that need no help to fascinate.
Itineraries
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Itineraries available in Europe
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Ten days from the forests of Risnjak to the island of Cres: Trsat castle above Rijeka, the Vojak tower at 1,401 m, the Lungomare at Opatija, Hum, Motovun and Grožnjan, the mosaics of the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč, Rovinj, the amphitheater of Pula, the Brijuni islands and Cape Kamenjak.
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Ten days on the big Dalmatian islands and beneath Biokovo: the town of Vis and the Kut quarter, the Blue Cave of Biševo, Stiniva cove, the stone of Brač and the Blaca hermitage, Zlatni rat, the Biokovo Skywalk, the lakes of Imotski, the town of Hvar, the Pakleni islands and the Stari Grad plain.
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Ten days in continental Croatia: Zagreb's upper town and Mirogoj cemetery, the Papuk UNESCO geopark, the baroque citadel of Osijek, the channels of Kopački Rit, Vukovar, Ilok on the Danube, Đakovo cathedral, baroque Varaždin, and the castles of Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor.
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Eleven days from the Kvarner islands to the great coastal mountain: Vrbnik and the town of Krk, the sands of Lopar, Goli Otok, the four bell towers of Rab, the Nehaj fortress at Senj, the Premužić trail along the Velebit ridge, the Plitvice Lakes, the underground base of Željava, the Paklenica canyons, the town of Pag and Nin.
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The right season
May-June and September are perfect: green Transylvania, monasteries in the light, mountain roads open. July-August heat the plains but remain the only full window for the Transfăgărășan and the delta. Winter, harsh, has its fairy-tale side: citadels under snow, the Christmas markets of Sibiu and skiing in the Carpathians.
Quick guide
The car is the right choice: distances are long, trains slow, and the finest roads (Transfăgărășan, Transalpina) are earned at the wheel. Watch for carts and dogs on the secondary roads.
The leu (RON), not the euro. Cards work well in the cities, cash remains useful in the countryside and the monasteries. The cost of living is among the lowest in the European Union.
Romanian, a Latin language: a French or Italian speaker deciphers much of it in writing. French is still spoken by the older generation, English by the young.
Bolt and Uber in the cities, CFR Călători for the trains, and Waze, much used locally, to anticipate the real state of the roads.
Generous family pensions (pensiunea), restored Saxon guesthouses in Transylvania and delta cabins. The welcome is warm and the tables plentiful.
Take your shoes off in private homes, accept the welcome țuică, and cover shoulders and knees in the monasteries. Orthodox priests are photographed with their consent.
Must-sees
Sinaia
The summer residence of Romania's kings, a neo-Renaissance masterpiece bristling with turrets at the foot of the Carpathians. The interior is sumptuous.
Bran
The perched fortress associated with Dracula. The myth sells, but the medieval castle and its secret passages are worth the visit in themselves.
Transylvania
The best-preserved inhabited Saxon citadel in Europe, its Clock Tower and its pastel lanes. Vlad the Impaler was born here, UNESCO.
Carpathians
90 km of switchbacks up to lake Bâlea at 2,034 m, the most spectacular road in Europe according to Top Gear. Open from July to October.
Romanian Moldavia
Voroneț and its exterior frescoes of inimitable blue, painted five centuries ago and UNESCO-listed. An art unique in the world.
Tulcea
The river dissolves into channels, reed beds and lakes peopled with pelicans. By boat at daybreak, wild Europe still exists.
Pick a point on the map, or browse the list below.
Also on the map
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