Day 5
Plitvice, the Lower and Upper Lakes
Morning
Drive from Jablanac to Plitvice
Across Lika via Otočac, duration to be confirmed, entering by Entrance 1.
Lower Lakes and the Great Waterfall
Sixteen terraced lakes, separated by travertine barriers that the mosses and algae keep building up: it is this living process, and not erosion, that earned the site its World Heritage listing as early as 1979. From Entrance 1, the wooden walkways descend into the canyon of the Lower Lakes as far as Veliki slap, 78 m (256 ft), the highest waterfall in the country.
Šupljara Cave
A through-cave opening above Lake Kaluđerovac, which serves as a shortcut to the plateau. The German westerns based on Karl May were filmed here in the 1960s, which the park still recalls.
Afternoon
Crossing Kozjak by boat
The largest of the lakes is crossed on an electric boat included in the ticket, the only way to get from the Lower to the Upper Lakes without walking back round.
Galovac and Prošćansko jezero
The Upper Lakes are wider, more wooded and less crowded at the end of the day. Galovac strings together the park's most photogenic waterfalls; Prošćansko jezero, right at the top, closes the series at the edge of the forest.
Good to know
Timed-entry ticket, to be booked online in advance in high season; the park caps the number of entries per hour. Prices and opening hours on the park's official website. On site, payment in cash or by card, subject to remaining tickets. The walkways are one-way and slippery, swimming is forbidden everywhere, drones are forbidden. Arriving at opening time avoids the midday crowds.