Day 43
Diocletian's Palace
Morning
Peristyle, Cathedral of St Domnius and Temple of Jupiter
Diocletian had his retirement residence built around 305, three hectares (7.4 acres) halfway between a villa and a military camp; Split's old town still lives inside it, houses set into the Roman walls. The peristyle, lined with columns of Egyptian granite and a sphinx brought back from the Nile, has served as a public square for seventeen centuries. The emperor's mausoleum became the Cathedral of St Domnius, dedicated to a bishop he had had executed, and the Temple of Jupiter a baptistery.
Palace cellars, Golden Gate and Silver Gate
The substructures, long filled with the city's refuse, trace the exact plan of the vanished imperial apartments above: today this is the busiest covered gallery in Split. The Golden Gate opened onto the road to Salona, with Meštrović's monumental statue of Gregory of Nin in front; the Silver Gate leads to the market.
Afternoon
Archaeological Museum, Riva and Prokurative
The Archaeological Museum of Split, founded in 1820, is the oldest in Croatia: it brings together most of the sculptures and inscriptions from Salona, and its lapidarium fills the whole garden. The Riva runs along the seafront to the Prokurative, a neo-Renaissance square arcaded on three sides and open to the sea, and the Pazar market, against the palace walls, sells fruit, vegetables and cheeses from the hinterland.
Good to know
Archaeological Museum of Split (armus.hr): from June to September, Monday to Saturday from 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM and from 3:00 PM to 8:00 PM, closed on Sundays and public holidays. The combined ticket bought the day before at Salona remains valid. Cathedral of St Domnius: tickets at the Peristyle ticket office, single (crypt, baptistery, cathedral, treasury, bell tower) or combined; the day's opening hours and prices to be checked on site. Free entry during Mass. Shoulders and knees covered.