Day 7
Šibenik and its three fortresses
Morning
St James's Cathedral, UNESCO
An hour and a quarter's drive from Zadar. The cathedral took more than a century to rise, from 1431 to 1536, and it is built entirely of stone, with neither wood nor mortar: the slabs interlock, including the dome and the barrel vault, a technique unique in Europe. Along the outer cornice runs a frieze of 71 carved heads, portraits of townspeople of the 15th century, the work of George the Dalmatian. Listed as a World Heritage Site in 2000.
Old town, Republic Square and Rector's Palace
Šibenik is not a Roman foundation but a Croatian one: mentioned in 1066 in a charter of King Petar Krešimir IV, it is the oldest Croatian town on the Adriatic. The old town is one continuous staircase of narrow lanes, with three fortresses above and a fourth out at sea. The Renaissance town loggia faces the cathedral across Republic Square; the Rector's Palace, on the quayside, houses the town museum.
Afternoon
St Michael's, Barone and St John's fortresses
St Michael's dominates the town from its rock, restored as an open-air stage that hosts concerts in summer. Barone, built in 1646 against the Ottomans, has kept its network of underground passages and a panoramic terrace. St John's, the highest, closes the system to the north: three fortresses for a single channel, which says enough about the town's strategic position.
Good to know
St Michael's, Barone and St John's fortresses (Tvrđava kulture): tickets at the ticket office of each fortress, joint ticket for all three valid for 7 days from the first visit. St Michael's is open in principle from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM, Barone from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, last entry half an hour before closing. St James's Cathedral (tourist office): paid entry, open every day from 8:30 AM to 8:30 PM from June to November, 7:30 PM in spring.