Day 10
The palace, Marunouchi and Ginza
Morning
East Gardens of the Imperial Palace
The heart of the old Edo Castle, the largest in the world in its day, which became the imperial residence in 1868. The East Gardens are the only part freely open: the stone base of the keep lost in 1657, the Fujimi-yagura guardhouse, and a Japanese garden designed in 1961. Access is through the Ōte-mon gate; closed on Mondays and Fridays.
Wadakura Fountain Park and Nijūbashi
The fountain park, created for the wedding of Emperor Akihito in 1961 and redone in 1995. A little further on, the Nijūbashi, the double bridge, is the classic viewpoint over the palace: an arched stone bridge and, behind it, an iron bridge topped by the Fushimi-yagura tower of 1628.
Afternoon
Marunouchi and Tokyo station
The red brick façade of 1914, designed by Kingo Tatsuno, lost its domes and its third floor to the bombs of 1945; it was restored identically in 2012 after five years of work. The Marunouchi business district around it lines up shopping galleries beneath the towers.
Ginza and the Kabuki-za
Rebuilt in brick by an English architect after the fire of 1872, Ginza has remained the district of luxury and of the first Western glassworks in Japan. The Kabuki-za, the main kabuki theatre, has existed since 1889; the present building, the fifth version, dates from 2013. You can buy a same-day ticket for a single act at the fourth-floor window: the simplest way to see kabuki without spending four hours on it.
Hama-rikyū garden
A former Tokugawa hunting estate turned imperial pleasure garden, opened to the public in 1946. Its pond is fed by sea water and its level rises and falls with the tide, which is unique in Tokyo. A tea house on stilts in the middle, and the Shiodome towers all around: the contrast is the whole interest.
Evening
Shinbashi and Caretta Shiodome
Shinbashi, the first railway terminus in Japan in 1872, is today the district of after-work izakaya, under the arches of the viaduct. Next door, the free observatory on the 46th floor of the Caretta Shiodome tower frames the bay and the Rainbow Bridge, open until 11:00 PM.
Good to know
Imperial Palace: the East Gardens close on Mondays and Fridays, and on days of official ceremony. Entry is free and is through the Ōte-mon gate, with a token handed out to be returned on the way out. The palace itself can only be visited on a booked guided tour, to be requested in advance.