Day 9
Moeraki, the peninsula and the albatrosses
Morning
Moeraki Boulders Beach
Calcite spheres two metres across, formed 60 million years ago by accretion around a core in the sea mud, then released by the erosion of the cliff. Ngāi Tahu tradition sees in them the food baskets and gourds washed up from the Araiteuru canoe. Best light early in the morning, and wider access at low tide.
Drive to the Otago Peninsula
An hour and a half, then the corniche road of the peninsula, narrow and spectacular, cut between the cliff and the harbour.
Afternoon
Larnach Castle
Built from 1871 by the banker and politician William Larnach, who brought craftsmen and materials from Europe then took his own life in the Parliament buildings in 1898. Abandoned, it was bought and restored by a family in the 1960s; the gardens, listed as of international significance, are worth as much as the house. Open 365 days a year, afternoon tea served at 3:00 PM in the ballroom.
Sandfly Bay
A big dune to go down, a wild beach at the bottom, New Zealand sea lions often asleep on the sand. Give them a wide berth, they are animals of several hundred kilos, fast on dry sand.
Evening
Royal Albatross Centre, Taiaroa Head
The only mainland royal albatross colony in the world, settled at the tip of the peninsula since the 1920s and protected ever since. Three metres of wingspan, a single clutch every two years, and birds that live more than fifty years. Viewing from a glazed hide, the guided tour is the only access. The wind at the end of the day is the best moment to see them take off.
Good to know
The Moeraki Boulders are best seen at low tide and in the morning light. Two ways in: the free public path from the northern car park, or the café at the top of the beach, paid.