Day 12
Pulau Ubin, the Singapore of before
Morning
Pulau Ubin
Ten square kilometres off Changi, reached by bumboat, those wooden boats that only leave once twelve passengers are aboard. The island lived on granite, whose quarries supplied the stone for the causeway to Malaysia, then it emptied: from several thousand inhabitants in the 1950s, about forty remain. No tarmac road, no private cars, electricity from generators. It is the last place where you can see what Singapore looked like before 1965, and NParks has chosen to leave it as it is.
Afternoon
Chek Jawa Wetlands
At the eastern tip of the island, an intertidal plain of one square kilometre where six ecosystems touch: mangrove, seagrass meadows, coral reef, sandy beach, mudflat and coastal forest. The site was to be reclaimed in 2001, and a mobilisation of naturalists saved it. A 1.1 km boardwalk in a loop, half over the mangrove, half above the sea, and the Jejawi Tower, seven storeys rising out of the canopy.
Evening
Puaka Hill and Ubin Quarry
The highest point of the island, 75 m up, reached by a steep fifteen-minute path that comes out on a ridge with no railing, above the flooded quarry: turquoise-green water ringed by granite walls, the best panorama of the north-east. The quarry itself can be walked along at water level.
Good to know
Chek Jawa is visited at low tide to see the foreshore, with tide times to be consulted the day before. Two or three stalls in the village and nothing elsewhere: take three litres of water per person and something for lunch. Wild boar roaming free, macaques and two-metre monitor lizards: leave nothing on the picnic tables.