Day 3
Historic and colonial La Paz
Morning
Plaza Murillo 3,650 m
The political heart of the country, the square is named after Pedro Domingo Murillo, a hero of independence executed here in 1810. It is bordered by the cathedral, the Palacio Legislativo and the Palacio Quemado. Pigeons, shoeshiners and the changing of the guard make up the daily scene.
Palacio Quemado
The former presidential palace owes its nickname, the “burnt palace”, to the fire of 1875, during an uprising. Its neoclassical façade overlooks Plaza Murillo. Since 2018, the presidency has been housed in the neighboring tower of the Casa Grande del Pueblo; the palace is mostly seen from the outside.
Teatro Municipal Alberto Saavedra Pérez
Opened in 1845, it is one of the oldest theaters in South America still in use. Its restored Italian-style auditorium hosts concerts, dance and theater. It stands on the corner of Calles Genaro Sanjinés and Indaburo, a stone's throw from the square.
Afternoon
Mercado de las Brujas
In Calles Linares, Santa Cruz and Sagárnaga, the stalls sell medicinal herbs, amulets, figurines and dried llama fetuses used as offerings to Pachamama. It is one of the most singular places in La Paz, where Aymara ritual practices live on.
Basílica de San Francisco and its museum
Founded in 1548 and rebuilt in the 18th century, the basilica is a masterpiece of mestizo baroque, in which indigenous sculptors blended Andean and Christian motifs. The adjoining museum opens up the cloister, the cells, a collection of religious art and the rooftops, from where the view takes in the square and Illimani. Official website:
Museo de la Coca
A small museum on Calle Linares devoted to the coca leaf: its age-old use in the Andes, its place in rituals and daily life, then its transformation into cocaine and the political issues that follow from it. Official website:
Mercado Rodríguez
A working-class market in the San Pedro district, especially lively at weekends, when the streets fill with stalls of fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meat and bread. An immersion in the daily life of the Paceños, far from the tourist circuits.
Good to know
A day on foot in streets that climb steeply: plan for breaks. The San Francisco museum takes about 1 hr to visit, rooftop access included. Keep an eye on your belongings in the markets and ask before photographing the women stallholders.