Day 13
Nashville, Music City
Morning
Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
After 1 h 30 of driving (back to Central Time), the great museum of country music in its building shaped like a bass clef: Elvis's gold Cadillac, Nudie's rhinestone suits and the rotunda of the inductees, from Hank Williams to Dolly Parton.
Afternoon
RCA Studio B and Ryman Auditorium
On Music Row, Studio B (1957) saw Elvis record more than 200 tracks, among them Are You Lonesome Tonight in complete darkness; it is reached by guided tour from the Hall of Fame. Then the Ryman Auditorium (1892), a tabernacle that became the "Mother Church of Country Music", home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974.
Evening
Broadway
The honky-tonks of Lower Broadway play free live music from midday to 3:00 AM, neon and all: Tootsie's Orchid Lounge, Robert's Western World and their neighbours. Entry is free, tipping the musicians is the rule.
Good to know
Back to Central Time. The RCA Studio B tour is only sold with the Country Music Hall of Fame ticket, in a timed slot. The Ryman offers a self-guided visit during the day and turns into a concert hall in the evening: check the programme before choosing.